seen it, done it and got the t-shirt

So I reached the end of the rainbow, and it's beautiful..!

All there's left now is to turn around and go home..

I didn't get the grand finale I wanted when the waves got small last two days.. 

but I still enjoyed them, just sitting there on my board floating in the sunset was a good ending, feeling almost like the lone ranger rinding away on his horse in the end of the movie..

I spent my last meals in my favourite places and after packing, I went to the local disco for one last reggae night and once again I was ashamed for my own race..

Why is it that white people can't move to music, and even less to the beat..

What is it in our inheritance that make's us so got damn ugly and out of rhythm.. 

well that's another post some other time..

I understand now that I'm truly blessed..

So this is my official goodbye!

thank you for tuning in, all five of you that reading this hehe.. 

It's been great, hope you enjoyed it and that I spread some smiles through the winter darkness..

I know I sure did enjoy it..!

don't forget .. I'M here to entertain YOU..

but I do have a feeling I might have one last adventure for you waiting.

so log in sometime next week for the prologue 

thank you and goodbye!

with Love

yours truly

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stranded

The least I needed was for me to ruin my board right now..

and I just had to go and do that didn't I..

The swell have been monstrous the last few days,  we're talking 3m+ waves, and for you that think that doesn't sounds so big , I dare you to come down here and even try to paddle out..

One good thing is that it's not as crowded, only the best locals still ripping..!

I was out there as well but after 2-3 waves I was beat from all the paddling and forcing the giant walls of water coming at you, so I just went up the beach for a breather.. then paddled out for 1-2 waves before needing a rest again..   short intense sessions right now..

but better too big then nothing at all !!

So yesterday just before lunch

time I caught one or two, and tumbled around in a couple of more..

getting frustrated " as always when u got high expectation of yourself " I thought I go for one last round before quitting the day and go for lunch.. It was big but I could handle it, you just have to gather your strength and get yourself through those first 10 waves..

And I know this so bad, you should never go for a last run..!

So after finishing a good left I was hopeful and started paddling out again.

Just to see that big wave Allan was building himself up to above 4m farther out, and I knew at an instant that I was in no good position..

So in a fraction of a second I had to make up my mind whether I should try to paddle against it, hoping my speed towards the great blue wall was fast enough so I could get under it, or turn around and get washed up on the beach with saltwater dripping from your sinuses for the rest of the week..

Full of cockyness from past days and rides giving up wasn't an option, so I started moving my tired arms in a quick crawling motion knowing my chance to make it clear were slim.

the last thing I felt before everything went white was a massive blunt force hitting me on my back when Allan laid his vengeance on me with all his fury and anger...

When I reached surface again my ears were ringing and the whole world was a big foamy washer.

No time to loose I yanked my right foot, attached my leach made the board float my way, mounted it and start paddling again.

Waves are in nature cowards and seldom come alone..

On grabbing  my board again I could feel a big lateral side-to-side canyon like ding across the mid section of my board.

It was broken in almost two...

Apparently I wasn't fast enough, the big wave raised tall straight in front of me and came down hard. With nowhere to go I just clinched my board and tried to get some depth between me and the surface, making me do a flip under water when the force of water falling 2 stories high landed on my back and kept me under for 20 sec..

Apparently that stunt, me trying to go down and the wave throwing me head first in an underwater backflip upwards, made a conflict in the law of physics and the nose part of my board gave..

Luckely the wave had thrown me almost straight down and up again, instead of back towards the beach, I made it through the next oncoming two waves before I pointed the nose in the direction of solid ground and actually made an decent left on return, all the way just waiting the nose to pop for real any second..

So here I am, my five last days of surfing without a board, money to buy a new or even repair or rent another..

I was really needing the money from selling it, and my luck.!

I actually had been talking to this girl working at the place I stay at the night before. 

She was really interested in buying it for 100 bucks when I left when the size was good for her and everything, she just wanted to check it out first..

Repair could be done when the core wasn't broken, but would cost me between 50-75 bucks..

FUCK!!!

well... as the good samaritan I am.

I gave the broken board to the girl and told her I was sorry I broke it, but it was hers if she wanted, and sort with repair herself..

She was so happy she was hopping up and down clapping her hands and gave me five kisses on the cheek..

Me... well today I took it easy reading at the beach and checking the swell, 

tomorrow I'll rob the bank and rent meself a little 6"0  the four lasting days..

the show must go on...

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costa rica weather report

Hey ya'll

Nothing much going on at this site for the moment.

Just wanna check in and tell ya'll I'm alive and kickin' .

The thing is that I'm just living my life and got in the routine down here, so not much out of the ordinary to report about..

Well it depends on who's setting the standards, but at this moment I am. 

I surf about 2-4 hours a day, when not I'm just chilling in a hammock, reading a book, plow through about a book a week right now, or just gaze at the ocean or sunset with some music or a movie in bed and accasional a beer at the local place watching the other mammals socialize at the water-hole.. 

this is not the last post I'll make, but it's one of them..

so keep on looking for the next one, even if it may take a few days...

wish u all were here with me.

pura vida

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tell mama

Happy happy joy joy.!

On friday morning I packed my stuff and took the bus once again across the peninsula back to Santa Teresa. This time it only took 6-7 hours.

And boy do I feel glad.!

This morning, second day of surfing and first morning session on return I went up just after sun break, downed a glass of o-j, grabbed a sandwich with nutella in one hand and my board in the other and went for the beach..

Only 50 meters away laid an almost completely empty beach with rolling 2-3 meters waves pushing in under a clear bleu sky.. 

I inhaled deeply through my nose and felt total peace, strapped my leach on and paddle out with a big smile on my face.!

Someone call mama and tell her not to worry.!

Her baby is finally home.!

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cute critters

Hello everybody, glad you could make it.

You know a funny thing happend to me on the way over here.. hehe.. 

I was walking home from lunch one day and got surprised by an falling squirrel.!

He just dropped 5 meters and landed with a big thud on the ground 2 meters from me..

Apparently he'd been balancing the tele and electrical wires along the road and got electrified.!

At first I didn't know what big orange thing was attacking me from above.. 

But on Impact I recognized the furry critter, and he was so cute.

Obviously the electric shock didn't just make him loose his grip, but also temporarily paralyzed him from his little squirrel wast and down.

Trying to get out of clearing he spun around on the spot a couple of times before heading towards a distant tree, seemingly dizzy from his shock and with a panic in his little eyes he tried to run, but with only his front paws working it was more like a crawl, dragging his lower body behind him all numb in the dirt and his friend still up on the wires following him intensively I couldn't stop from laughing..! 

The two adventurers met at the same tree, the half paralyzed clinging to the tree branch with a solid grip, his eyes big as of a rabbit, breathing heavy and his little rodent heart beating in 200, probably wondering what the f... just happend..

so cute.. 

You maybe noticed I like animals by now..! and Costa Rica is really rich on them as well.

hence the name.. 

They host everything from monkeys and jaguars to slots and skunks, and under the surface awaits top three of the most sharks per cubic meter of water on the planet.!

They also are rich on birdlife and I've seen humming birds while reading in my hammock and parakeets flying in the sunset. 

But there's one that caught my interest the most, maybe cause it's like the woodpecker on christmas tv..

They're not as coulorful when they are all black, but you see and hear them everywhere.

They can make the most weird noises, and 100's of them too, you'll look up in the sky expecting a pack of 20 different birds, when it's just 2 or 3 of this birds making a cracking out of it.

On another day I had a similar experience like the squirrel, but with these birds..

On Sunset every afternoon they gather up in ONE tree down by the beach, and have a party!!

I think they are trying to mate up, or just meet to fight or something, hundreds of birds flying in and out the tree branches squeaking, whistling and making all the sounds they can at the same time..  

Just think of 3pm Disney hour on TV and Mickey Mouse's christmas tree when pluto drags everybody in chasing chip and dale..  that's how it looks and sounds.. 

One night standing there, 2 birds entangled in each other falls straight to the ground like a bowling ball.. gets loose, shake off and fly straight back up the tree again..

made my day..

First morning a couple of weeks ago I woke up to what I thought was a squealing pig, and it would never stop.. it was like the roosters of pigs grunting to the sunrise.. and it was close too, was it so dark last night I didn't see it was a pig farm I've entered..

I open the door and see no pigs, and it strikes me, I'm in Costa Rica.

Howling Monkeys sitting in the trees just above my room and make a name for themselves..! 

And this morning I saw maybe the smallest cutest dog I've ever seen, not even big as my right hand..

Belonging to a cafe shop owner he stumbled around the patio when I ate breakfast.

And he got a good future as a guarding dog, when he saw me he came running and I put a hand down to pet him, the cute little thing.

But he wasn't up to play, he attacked me with all his fury hehe.

He was battling my hand with all he had, biting, jumping, and making big dogs noises, only making him even more cute, and when I stopped playing with him and got back to my scrambled eggs he went on my foot and flip flop determined to kill my toes with biting and shaking hihi..  cutest ever..!

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samara

Samara.. Isn't that a name of a cat or a Persian girl..?

Well both is correct actually, and it's also a name of a little village on the pacific coast of

Costa Rica.

I have now spent almost a week in this place named after a beautiful girl from the middle east once brought here as a lover of a Spanish captain, she loved this place and it's scenic beaches so much, and the captain her so he built her a castle on one of the islands outside the shore, but she died in syphilis before the last stone was in place.

In years it stood empty before it was used as a prison for decades, in the 1930s a hurricane almost levelled it by the rocks and now it just poses as a authentic silhouette in the sunset and a cold reminder that civilization and syphilization goes hand in hand..

Didn't know what my first impression was, not so bad I recall saying to may self, not wanting it to be crap and jinx it..

well it's not crap, but the waves are just ain't that big, and you can't even go out on low tide because there's no waves at all then..

and maybe it's not all the waves, but it's just a small strip of the bay that gets swell, and that bit is crowded like a flume ride cue at Disneyland in mid july..

And I hate having to fight for my waves, especially when they aren't that great.

The village itself is more like a square village compared to Santa T, which is nice, but the people here are more like 50+ couples or drinking buds from the big fat country ..

And when having breakfast this morning, seeing a ponytail wearing 55 year old thinks he's all that with that upstuck American look and with Joyce, a 45+ think I am 20 and wear slutty short skirts and Dolly P. sized boobs, at his side.
I just knew I got to get out of here..!

No I make it sounds like hell.. and it's not.!! it's pretty nice, but the clientele is not really my cup of tea.

Today at surf time it started to rain, which emptied the water rather quick.

but it wasn't all bad, actually very good.!

It was a warm summer rain with the sun still shining on you while setting below the clouds in the horizon.

and it lasted only for a half an hour, and it was nice floating on your board with the thunder rumble in a far distance.. and for once there were no battle about the waves..

I had easy 15-20 goes , still small but with no locals or learning tourist breathing down your neck it actually was fun playing around a bit..

and I live pretty good.. or what do you think..

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three flew the vultures nest

The kids has flew their nests and left me all alone by the breakfast table..
Great times having C.G and Jonna with me here playing plump and with the waves.

Two days before departing they rented a ATV and went for some waterfalls nearby, Myself still on the pill let them go by their own for some quality time, and I really didn't have the energy for it with acing ears.
Came home after a great day and some good and bad experiences..
Apparently a guy jumped the cliffs and never surfaced again. a 32 year old tourist.
Not a great way to end your vacation..

So if they don't die jumping the big hills in whistler they do it in front of us from cliffs in the tropics..

To happier things.
on the last day we went out on high tide to get some bigger waves for my young apprentices, and the waves were just amazing.
Medium too small sized forgiving waves with hardly any closeout at all but with enough power to make a few turns on.!!
After shouting at C.G to paddle farther out an hour I couldn't hold myself..
When they came up for a breather I snuck C.Gs funboard and paddle out for two waves to ease my cravings making sure my head was above the surface.!!
It felt soooo gooood.!! though I'm longing to get well and rip with my board again soon.. :)

After debating with myself staying or not, I have had such a great time in
Santa Teresa, I decided to go see something else.
Moving up the coast to a place called Samara, a little more developed village with some decent surf I've heard, only 50 km north I thought that would be a good place to check out, but you didn't think it would be that easy did you..

Because of the none existing quality on the coastal road there's no public transport, and with the taxis being as expensive as in Stockholm I was bound to go around the whole peninsula to get there.. at 5.30 in the sunrise I jumped on the first public bus out of the village starting a very bumpy 12 hour journey..
And my question is.:

Why do they always have to either accelerate or brake? there's never a level in between just holding your speed.
Also why don't they start breaking a bit sooner? always stomps it in the last second making everything in the bus change places like a freggin tombola.!
And for Christ sake.. what's up with the music!!
First of all, why even play anything, second why the hell so LOUD! and third,
Why is it that in the whole of Americas south of Texas, every bus driver doesn't just like, but eagerly likes to share the same style of music.
It sound like a " the best of Hotorgs Indianerna" cd with a euro techno salsa beat pumping in the background !!
It's as annoying as hilarious...

So halfway through we encounter a pack of vultures feasting on a road kill in the middle of the road..
Upon discovery they make a rightfully decision and make a run(flight) for it.
Imagine the bus leaping from side to side on the pot hole filled gravel road in hundred fifty, almost like on beat, following the accompanied hysterical salsa beat with a mad panflute Indian on crack!!
I think they made a good move..

one two step turn! back slide other side jump! spin spin flip and back! round round forward and stop..!!

While the smart vultures goes out to the side, one decides to go in the direction of the oncoming bus. Vultures not being the most elegant and agile creatures of the sky, he struggles to get some air beneath him.!
The driver, gladly beating his fingers on the steering wheel enjoying his new mixed cd he recently picked up from the post office, a gift from his distant cousins in northen european, not willing to hit the big bird stompes the break peddle, hard enough to fool the other vultures on a meal, and quick enough not to loose to much of the momentum down the hill.
Making all the passangers in the more then half filled bus now sitting in the first 3 rows.!!

Well I made it without bruses, and I've done worse.
Now sipping a fresh pineapple juice on the beach checking out the surf..
Tomorrow's gonna be the first day after the meds that I'll make a surfing one, and it's maybe not Santa Teresa but it doesn't look bad at all,

not bad at all...

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body and soul

Here we go again.!!

I'm truly getting old!! my body can't take all the physical abuse my mind willingly throws it head first any longer..

I'm on antibiotics again.

Two weeks of heavy surfing and my ears couldn't stand more pounding waves..

ear infection in not one, but in both..  maybe because I left it to heal itself for a week still surfing two sessions a day, before finally this morning the pain was to great to ignore and I dragged myself to the doctor.

4-5 days resting in the hammock, some antibiotic drops and pills and some pain relief he ordinated.

a not too bad of a recovering method..  

I'm glad I got a total of 6 weeks here, so you have time getting hurt I mean :)

It just sucks being ill when I got my friend here, me trying to help them get going with surfing and all.

which by the way they really got a hang on and showing some great fighting spirits.!

I'll guess I just have to shout and point with my whole hand from the beach instead of my board..

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villa iguana

I think I never lived this nice, and cheap at the same time like we do right now.

Our villa's called Iguana and it's located a bit up from the main (only) road which is good because it's quiet, and warm, as a sauna i july..

but the close vegitation gives an exellent shadow and also some really good insight protection.!

We can go around our little garden and patio and have an outside shower all nude and nobody's around..

The house has tw

o big bedrooms and is fully built in teak wood, it's almost like a swedish winter cottage, but with palmtrees souranding and 35 degrees on the other side of zero..

We got the full package here with a full kitchen with fridge for cooling beer and holding ice,

a blender for fresh fruit drinks with or without rum and twinkling patio lights for that ambient after surf evenings in one of our two hammocks..

This morning I made what I call brazilian pancakes which were gladly wolfed down by my housemates..

THIS IS LIFE

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