On friday morning I packed my stuff and took the bus once again across the peninsula back to Santa Teresa. This time it only took 6-7 hours.
And boy do I feel glad.!
This morning, second day of surfing and first morning session on return I went up just after sun break, downed a glass of o-j, grabbed a sandwich with nutella in one hand and my board in the other and went for the beach..
Only 50 meters away laid an almost completely empty beach with rolling 2-3 meters waves pushing in under a clear bleu sky..
I inhaled deeply through my nose and felt total peace, strapped my leach on and paddle out with a big smile on my face.!
Someone call mama and tell her not to worry.!
Her baby is finally home.!
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