The least I needed was for me to ruin my board right now..
and I just had to go and do that didn't I..
The swell have been monstrous the last few days, we're talking 3m+ waves, and for you that think that doesn't sounds so big , I dare you to come down here and even try to paddle out..
One good thing is that it's not as crowded, only the best locals still ripping..!
I was out there as well but after 2-3 waves I was beat from all the paddling and forcing the giant walls of water coming at you, so I just went up the beach for a breather.. then paddled out for 1-2 waves before needing a rest again.. short intense sessions right now..
but better too big then nothing at all !!
So yesterday just before lunch
time I caught one or two, and tumbled around in a couple of more..
getting frustrated " as always when u got high expectation of yourself " I thought I go for one last round before quitting the day and go for lunch.. It was big but I could handle it, you just have to gather your strength and get yourself through those first 10 waves..
And I know this so bad, you should never go for a last run..!
So after finishing a good left I was hopeful and started paddling out again.
Just to see that big wave Allan was building himself up to above 4m farther out, and I knew at an instant that I was in no good position..
So in a fraction of a second I had to make up my mind whether I should try to paddle against it, hoping my speed towards the great blue wall was fast enough so I could get under it, or turn around and get washed up on the beach with saltwater dripping from your sinuses for the rest of the week..
Full of cockyness from past days and rides giving up wasn't an option, so I started moving my tired arms in a quick crawling motion knowing my chance to make it clear were slim.
the last thing I felt before everything went white was a massive blunt force hitting me on my back when Allan laid his vengeance on me with all his fury and anger...
When I reached surface again my ears were ringing and the whole world was a big foamy washer.
No time to loose I yanked my right foot, attached my leach made the board float my way, mounted it and start paddling again.
Waves are in nature cowards and seldom come alone..
On grabbing my board again I could feel a big lateral side-to-side canyon like ding across the mid section of my board.
It was broken in almost two...
Apparently I wasn't fast enough, the big wave raised tall straight in front of me and came down hard. With nowhere to go I just clinched my board and tried to get some depth between me and the surface, making me do a flip under water when the force of water falling 2 stories high landed on my back and kept me under for 20 sec..
Apparently that stunt, me trying to go down and the wave throwing me head first in an underwater backflip upwards, made a conflict in the law of physics and the nose part of my board gave..
Luckely the wave had thrown me almost straight down and up again, instead of back towards the beach, I made it through the next oncoming two waves before I pointed the nose in the direction of solid ground and actually made an decent left on return, all the way just waiting the nose to pop for real any second..
So here I am, my five last days of surfing without a board, money to buy a new or even repair or rent another..
I was really needing the money from selling it, and my luck.!
I actually had been talking to this girl working at the place I stay at the night before.
She was really interested in buying it for 100 bucks when I left when the size was good for her and everything, she just wanted to check it out first..
Repair could be done when the core wasn't broken, but would cost me between 50-75 bucks..
FUCK!!!
well... as the good samaritan I am.
I gave the broken board to the girl and told her I was sorry I broke it, but it was hers if she wanted, and sort with repair herself..
She was so happy she was hopping up and down clapping her hands and gave me five kisses on the cheek..
Me... well today I took it easy reading at the beach and checking the swell,
tomorrow I'll rob the bank and rent meself a little 6"0 the four lasting days..
the show must go on...
.